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Post by Deleted on May 14, 2014 10:05:35 GMT -5
That menu looks perfect! (dance) My only feedback is that if their poops seem hard or dry you can cut back on the bone a little. Bone is the trickiest thing because there's no solid number (sorry - I know you love the numbers). Each ferret is different. Some do better on 7 meals, some need 9, some even more or less! Bones your guide is their poop. My boys tend to need more bone than most, though I think their IBD contributes to that.
I feel like, in general, I have softer poops. But in their defense I have brought home a new babe once a month! (I was looking at the dates, a new ferret almost a month apart since March... eeeeck I'm bad!) so now that things are 'more stable' hopefully they will be less stress induced. But I always keep MM and BI of a few different proteins handy in the indoor freezer in case I need to grab something to substitute or what not. The big one in the garage holds the bulk. Also, I came home form work yesterday to NASTY poops all over the cage, 3 distinct spots and then smearing all over... Almost like someone had urgent poops one after the other and spread it of course. I checked butts and this time I was able to narrow it down to Pepe. It looks fairly fresh, not totally dried up. I got pics of course! (this is turning into a poop thread more than a feeding thread...) The actual liter box didn't have anything unusual... just all over the nice new blankets. Brat. He acted normal that afternoon. I will note that there was a LOT of food left. It was a big meal though and I think now that it's getting hotter I need to start cutting back on amounts because they are going to start eating less. There was still about 1/3 of the total meal left still this morning, I decided to toss it because it was getting that sweat smell. The other notable thing is I did give them eggs that morning to assist in pic taking and left the rest in the cage, I also mixed in about 1/4 tps olive oil (again I was using for pics, just put the rest mixed in with the egg). They only ate about half of it (I mixed 3 eggs, 1 for each), but maybe Pepe ate too much and it just ran through him and made his belly sick?? I usually give eggs on Sunday and hand feed them it so I make sure everyone is getting their own, so it wouldn't surprise me if Pepe got the bulk of it. He really likes eggs. Lastly, just to confirm, this is what I am calling a 'normal' BI, formed poop. This would have been after a BI duck/chicken meal, with possible egg...
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Post by Deleted on May 14, 2014 10:28:31 GMT -5
1.) One approach is you can give them live mice (one ferret, one mouse - no group hunts) and let them hunt. This is a method that many people use to teach their ferrets that whole prey is food. Often once those instincts kick in and they make the kill, they realize it is their prize and will eat it (but not always). If they don't eat it, you save the body and use it to intro whole prey just as you would with f/t.
2.) The other approach is you can teach them to eat whole prey first by starting with f/t prey, so that they learn to recognize FIRST that the mouse is food and know to hunt it.
Honestly both methods work for different ferrets, and there really isn't any way to determine which is better. Though occasionally if method 1 fails and the ferret is a poor hunter, I will intro them to whole prey as food, then give them one more chance to hunt later after they realize it is food. That said, I wouldn't say that either method is better than the other - they are both just different ways to approach it. Whichever you want to try first is up to you.
Just to comment on this real quick, I think I like approach 2 best. It makes more sense in my mind to make sure they know it is food first. I will definitely look for some frozen mice in the weeks to come and we can go from there. I will let you know when I have them. How many is considered a meal approx per ferret? I know, like anything, it prob varies on different things, but just so I know about how many to get. Maybe I will look into ordering them in 'bulk.' I know when I was feeding my snakes they could be a bit pricey. I didn't think much of it because it was 1-2 a months, so $3 it's a big deal to spend, but I can see how it might get pricey for the furr-babes.
Eh poop scooping is overrated! haha
AGREED, totally overrated!!! lol
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Post by Deleted on May 14, 2014 12:24:15 GMT -5
Also, I decided to make an order from hare-today, to get some more variety (as if I didn't have enough....) 1 x Ground Goat/Bones/Organs/Tripe, 3 lb, Course Ground () = $13.17 1 x Chicken Hearts, 2 lbs () = $4.99 1 x Duck Hearts, 2 lbs () = $6.39 1 x Rabbit Pieces 3 lbs () = $14.97 It's mostly the rabbit and goat I wanted, but figured it would be nice to have the variety of heart available too and since I was paying for shipping figured I'd sneak them in also. Not too must more... My babes LOVE the chicken hearts! I will usually use them as a treat when I buy gizzards and get 1-2 hearts. And they enjoy duck also, so hopefully the duck hearts are a hit. Just to clarify, would I use the goat ground as a BI meal? The descriptions says 'Entire whole goat, coarse ground through 3/4 inch grinder plate, including heart, lung, liver, tripe and kidney along with bones" so since it has organs too would I eliminate one of my organ meals in a week? I am guessing it is the same as feeding whole prey, therefore it is a fully balanced meal, so what meal would I replace it with in a given week?? Also, am I correct to say that ground isn't the best to feed all the time because they are not getting the chewing they need as well as the teeth cleaning factor? I tried getting the course ground for those reasons. And also I know a meal here and there isn't going to hurt, just getting my info straight.
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Post by katt on May 15, 2014 2:04:14 GMT -5
I feel like, in general, I have softer poops. But in their defense I have brought home a new babe once a month! (I was looking at the dates, a new ferret almost a month apart since March... eeeeck I'm bad!) so now that things are 'more stable' hopefully they will be less stress induced. But I always keep MM and BI of a few different proteins handy in the indoor freezer in case I need to grab something to substitute or what not. The big one in the garage holds the bulk. That's good. Part of the soft poops is adjusting, but some ferrets just need more bone. Mine get more than the standard "7-9 meals." Your normal bone-in poops look decent. It could just be the shape but they do look a teensie bit on the softer side, but nothing I would be concerned about. As long as they are formed and cohesive then you're fine. Keep in mind that boneless poops will be softer, heart poops even softer (and dark), and organ poops will be DARK and loose - they will look dark and tarry due to the high blood content in the organs. Especially liver. I find when I feed uterus and brains on the other hand that their poops are very pale and super sloppy. Also, I came home form work yesterday to NASTY poops all over the cage, 3 distinct spots and then smearing all over... Almost like someone had urgent poops one after the other and spread it of course. I checked butts and this time I was able to narrow it down to Pepe. It looks fairly fresh, not totally dried up. I got pics of course! (this is turning into a poop thread more than a feeding thread...)Poop evaluations are all just part of the switch and part of ferrenting. Those poops look okay for egg+oil poops. He probably was caught surprised and couldn't make it to the box. My guess is you are correct and he ate a bit more than usual. I have the same problem with eggs - Koda is a fiend and will eat the whole thing if I don't hand feed Kenai his share first. I add salmon oil to my eggs, so the oil is fine - amazing for hairballs and IBD flare ups (I also add in reishi, multiV powder, and probios for IBD flare ups). I would suggest adding the shells in. Powdered eggshell tends to sink to the bottom and get ignored. Mine ignore most of the crushed shell too, but they get some. I put the shell into the bowl and smash it up into chunks when I whisk the eggs. Doing that or mixing in a little powdered eggshell (just keep remixing it in to bring it from the surface when you are hand feeding the egg) should help a lot. It will help to make the poops a little less runny without removing the benefit of the eggs.
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Post by katt on May 15, 2014 2:08:07 GMT -5
Just to comment on this real quick, I think I like approach 2 best. It makes more sense in my mind to make sure they know it is food first. I will definitely look for some frozen mice in the weeks to come and we can go from there. I will let you know when I have them. How many is considered a meal approx per ferret? I know, like anything, it prob varies on different things, but just so I know about how many to get. Maybe I will look into ordering them in 'bulk.' I know when I was feeding my snakes they could be a bit pricey. I didn't think much of it because it was 1-2 a months, so $3 it's a big deal to spend, but I can see how it might get pricey for the furr-babes.
Sounds good! Meals...1-2 mice per ferret is a meal. One XL rat is 2 meals for my 2 boys. They don't get whole prey regularly though. I was breeding and they got mice regularly then, but we have been living in Shane's parent's house this year and they aren't animal people so I had to stop breeding. I'm not sure yet if I'll breed in Seattle or not. I would like to have 1-2 colonies, but I know Shane would prefer to not have the mice to deal with, so we'll see. I think it will depend on if there's even a good space to keep a mouse cage.
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Post by katt on May 15, 2014 2:16:38 GMT -5
Also, I decided to make an order from hare-today, to get some more variety (as if I didn't have enough....)
1 x Ground Goat/Bones/Organs/Tripe, 3 lb, Course Ground () = $13.17 1 x Chicken Hearts, 2 lbs () = $4.99 1 x Duck Hearts, 2 lbs () = $6.39 1 x Rabbit Pieces 3 lbs () = $14.97
It's mostly the rabbit and goat I wanted, but figured it would be nice to have the variety of heart available too and since I was paying for shipping figured I'd sneak them in also. Not too must more... My babes LOVE the chicken hearts! I will usually use them as a treat when I buy gizzards and get 1-2 hearts. And they enjoy duck also, so hopefully the duck hearts are a hit.
Just to clarify, would I use the goat ground as a BI meal? The descriptions says 'Entire whole goat, coarse ground through 3/4 inch grinder plate, including heart, lung, liver, tripe and kidney along with bones" so since it has organs too would I eliminate one of my organ meals in a week? I am guessing it is the same as feeding whole prey, therefore it is a fully balanced meal, so what meal would I replace it with in a given week?? Also, am I correct to say that ground isn't the best to feed all the time because they are not getting the chewing they need as well as the teeth cleaning factor? I tried getting the course ground for those reasons. And also I know a meal here and there isn't going to hurt, just getting my info straight. Okay looks good. Goat is fantastic! The goat actually, since it is whole ground goat, you would count as whole prey. So working whole prey into your menu. Your number-oriented brain my love this (or maybe it will drive you nuts since it's not exact lol). So remember that the idea behind frankenprey diets is to mimic the proportions they would get eating a whole prey diet. A whole prey meal is COMPLETELY balanced, so when you feed whole prey, you actually remove that meal from your total meal-count and readjust your %'s accordingly. Feeding 1-2 meals a week of whole prey will not significantly alter the balance and you would count them as bone-in meals and keep the heart and organ the same. If you feed say 3-4 meals a week of whole prey though, now you are down to only 10 meals left to balance. So now instead of feeding 1.5 meals of organ and 1.5 meals of heart to make 10%, you would cut back to only One meal of each. My guess is for the price of whole prey and whole animal grinds they won't be getting more than 4 meals a week of whole prey, but if they did you would keep going with the same pattern of adjusting the balance when you have a Significant change in balance due to the addition of the whole prey. Let me know if that makes sense or if you have any Q's.
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2014 9:38:12 GMT -5
That's good. Part of the soft poops is adjusting, but some ferrets just need more bone. Mine get more than the standard "7-9 meals." Your normal bone-in poops look decent. It could just be the shape but they do look a teensie bit on the softer side, but nothing I would be concerned about. As long as they are formed and cohesive then you're fine. Keep in mind that boneless poops will be softer, heart poops even softer (and dark), and organ poops will be DARK and loose - they will look dark and tarry due to the high blood content in the organs. Especially liver. I find when I feed uterus and brains on the other hand that their poops are very pale and super sloppy. That sounds pretty consistent with what I am seeing, except those weird light ones here and there. I had a few weird ones this morning also... I mainly thought they were weird because it was after a feeding of hearts (I did give about 2 oz BI duck because it was not much heart, maybe it's a mixture?) and they're gray, that's weird too. I dunno, but we will keep watching and I will keep posting! Poop evaluations are all just part of the switch and part of ferrenting.One of the many joys...
Those poops look okay for egg+oil poops. He probably was caught surprised and couldn't make it to the box. My guess is you are correct and he ate a bit more than usual. Good to know, I will be more diligent with hand feeding to make sure Pepe isn't a Piggy. Also, I will try to give egg with a nice BI meal from now on, as well as adding the eggshell in for same reason. Should I just use the shell I just cracked or do I need to use ones that are already dried so I can powder them? Can eggshell harm them if it isn't too smashed up?? Lastly, I haven't had a chance to get them into the vet for a checkup. None of them are sick nor do I have any specific concerns, I just want a nice physical and peace of mind. Is there anything I should ask for specifically? Blood work? Glucose reading? What would you suggest?
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2014 11:23:40 GMT -5
Okay looks good. Goat is fantastic! The goat actually, since it is whole ground goat, you would count as whole prey. So working whole prey into your menu. Your number-oriented brain my love this (or maybe it will drive you nuts since it's not exact lol). So remember that the idea behind frankenprey diets is to mimic the proportions they would get eating a whole prey diet. A whole prey meal is COMPLETELY balanced, so when you feed whole prey, you actually remove that meal from your total meal-count and readjust your %'s accordingly. Feeding 1-2 meals a week of whole prey will not significantly alter the balance and you would count them as bone-in meals and keep the heart and organ the same. If you feed say 3-4 meals a week of whole prey though, now you are down to only 10 meals left to balance. So now instead of feeding 1.5 meals of organ and 1.5 meals of heart to make 10%, you would cut back to only One meal of each. My guess is for the price of whole prey and whole animal grinds they won't be getting more than 4 meals a week of whole prey, but if they did you would keep going with the same pattern of adjusting the balance when you have a Significant change in balance due to the addition of the whole prey. Let me know if that makes sense or if you have any Q's.
That does make sense, just removing the amount of meals and adjusting your % from there. I will likely only feed a whole prey meal once a week or so. I want this goat to last! Also my hubby, bless his heart, brought me more meat from the butcher friend he has. This time it was actually packaged and labeled as to what type of cut it was (ie heart, kidney) but not what animal it is. SO I have 7 lbs liver, 8 lbs heart, and 3 lbs of kidney of an unknown protein! (headwall) It is LIKELY beef (based on the size of one of the hearts), but I am going to label it special with a '?' or something. But all that was only $20. Mostly just in case we end up with an allergy or something. The butcher also said he would put us on the waiting list for the next head (I was shocked that there was a waiting list....) so that will give us tongue, brain, cheek. Can they eat the eyes?? Maybe save ears for 'chew toys.' I dunno, it should be interesting. Matt also told him that we would be interested in deer meat when the season came around and he had anyone who didn't want the organs or head or something. Should be fun! I didn't have the heart to tell him I had just made the hare-today order.... I will be stocked with heart for a while!!!
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Post by katt on May 16, 2014 1:51:53 GMT -5
That sounds pretty consistent with what I am seeing, except those weird light ones here and there. I had a few weird ones this morning also... I mainly thought they were weird because it was after a feeding of hearts (I did give about 2 oz BI duck because it was not much heart, maybe it's a mixture?) and they're gray, that's weird too. I dunno, but we will keep watching and I will keep posting! What a strange color... Was the duck that you fed particularly fatty? Fat can contribute to pale poops, and softer poops. If the poops were more dry I'd say too much bone but they look pretty moist, esp the first ones. Often white or gray poops are too much fat, bone, or bacterial. Are the poops super stinky? If so it could be their guts adjusting to the new food still (it can take Up To 2-3 months for some to fully adjust, though past that point they are NOT still adjusting and something else is up). Good to know, I will be more diligent with hand feeding to make sure Pepe isn't a Piggy. Also, I will try to give egg with a nice BI meal from now on, as well as adding the eggshell in for same reason. Should I just use the shell I just cracked or do I need to use ones that are already dried so I can powder them? Can eggshell harm them if it isn't too smashed up??I would feed the egg as a meal in itself. One chicken egg should fill them up for a while anyways. I use the shell I just cracked and break it up into the soup, but that usually mostly goes ignored. You can use powdered eggshell but like I was saying it sinks to the bottom unless you keep stirring it up as you hand feed it. If you include shell in the egg, it essentially counts as a bone-in meal. So if you feed egg+shell + a bone in meal, that's basically 2 bone-in meals. Lastly, I haven't had a chance to get them into the vet for a checkup. None of them are sick nor do I have any specific concerns, I just want a nice physical and peace of mind. Is there anything I should ask for specifically? Blood work? Glucose reading? What would you suggest? How old are they all again? I know Pepe is a kit - are the other 2 kits also? If they are under a year a BG and bloodw ork really aren't necessary. Though a BG is easy, quick and cheap and would give you a baseline, but considering you are feeding them raw from such a young age they aren't at high risk for insu. I'd just get a physical, check all 3 for ear mites (pet store kits almost ALWAYS have ear mite - some places are better than others, but where I am a pet store kit is all but guaranteed to have them). Also you could ask for a fecal BUT...I hesitate to get one done unless someone is sick for a few reasons.... Many vets are very anti-raw, and look for any and every little bad thing or excuse to pin on raw. I once dealt with someone whose vet told her that her ferret's seizures were due to raw diet, outright told her that she was killing her ferret by feeding him raw, and REFUSED to treat him until she switched to kibble. Her ferret was extremely ill with a mystery disease and this was the only ferret vet she had access too...I don't generally recommend lying to your vets, but in this case it was the only option. Once she lied to the vet and said she was feeding kibble, the vet finally started to treat him...after probably a year of guesswork he was finally diagnosed with hypoparathyroidism which in animals leads to metabolic bone disease and seizures among other issues. (Which is so weird bc it is pretty much the opposite in humans...really strange. I'm looking forward to endocrinology to explore this more). Hypoparathyroidism has absolutely nothing to do with diet - he would have been unable to absorb the calcium in any form it was given and ended up having to be on an incredibly high dose of calcium AND Vitamin D, and then it still only bought him a few short years. I have no doubt he wouldn't have even lasted that long on kibble.... Anyways, moral of the story is some vets will use any and ever excuse to demonize raw. My original ferret vet (one of the vest exotic vets in the state) explained to me that ferrets naturally have a very high bacterial load in their poops and that if the vet tech and vet do not know what they are looking at/for, this frequently results in a high rate of improperly diagnosed "bacterial infections." If you are feeding raw, the gut bacterial load is going to be Different than on kibble diet. If there is any bacteria in the poop, and you are feeding raw, and you have an anti-raw vet....guess what you're going to hear? "Your ferret has a bad bacterial infection, raw diet is to blame!" (Oh and FYI E. coli and Salmonella are both part of the Normal microbiota of most animals' guts, so the presence of either is NOT diagnostic - and an abnormally high count of either MIGHT be, but keep in mind what I said above about ferrets having higher bacterial load than dogs and cats). Anyways, for all of the above reasons, I really only get a fecal if something is really off - but if they are having strange poops it never hurts. I don't like giving Abx unless absolutely needed, but will it kill them? Nah. THAT SAID...It is always possible with so many new additions that either someone was carrying something and brought it into the house with them, and/or that the stress of new additions compromised their immune systems and allowed a bacterial overgrowth (or Both!). So THAT is the argument FOR a fecal. Just to contradict everything I just said and really confuse you. lmao It's up to you, and the vet, but those are the pros and cons as I see it. I don't think it would hurt either way - who knows, a round of antibiotics just might clear up whatever on again off again poop thing they have going, or it might not make a lick of difference.
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Post by katt on May 16, 2014 1:55:06 GMT -5
That does make sense, just removing the amount of meals and adjusting your % from there. I will likely only feed a whole prey meal once a week or so. I want this goat to last! *nods* Okay. As I said above then, this wouldn't affect the balance enough to necessitate any change to the heart/organ meals. Also my hubby, bless his heart, brought me more meat from the butcher friend he has. This time it was actually packaged and labeled as to what type of cut it was (ie heart, kidney) but not what animal it is. SO I have 7 lbs liver, 8 lbs heart, and 3 lbs of kidney of an unknown protein! (headwall) It is LIKELY beef (based on the size of one of the hearts), but I am going to label it special with a '?' or something. But all that was only $20. Mostly just in case we end up with an allergy or something. The butcher also said he would put us on the waiting list for the next head (I was shocked that there was a waiting list....) so that will give us tongue, brain, cheek. Can they eat the eyes?? Maybe save ears for 'chew toys.' I dunno, it should be interesting. Matt also told him that we would be interested in deer meat when the season came around and he had anyone who didn't want the organs or head or something. Should be fun!
I didn't have the heart to tell him I had just made the hare-today order.... I will be stocked with heart for a while!!! Oh boy! That is awesome though! And yeah, aside from potential for allergies it's not super critical to know the protein. If you do end up doing a food trial though then it becomes more important. That's awesome that you have access to such great variety! Lots of people hunt in AK, including Shane's parents. I am super lucky as I get the Moose and Caribou scraps, and they usually try to save the heart, liver, and kidneys for me when they can find them. As long as you have the freezer space, the extra meat won't go to waste! A little freezer burn won't bother the ferrets.
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2014 18:03:50 GMT -5
What a strange color... Was the duck that you fed particularly fatty? Fat can contribute to pale poops, and softer poops. If the poops were more dry I'd say too much bone but they look pretty moist, esp the first ones. Often white or gray poops are too much fat, bone, or bacterial. Are the poops super stinky? If so it could be their guts adjusting to the new food still (it can take Up To 2-3 months for some to fully adjust, though past that point they are NOT still adjusting and something else is up). I don't know that I would have called it fat... it did have very thick skin. Was this fat I am calling skin...maybe. I honestly didn't notice a smell, but didn't 'sniff' for one either. I will just keep documenting these weird poops, posting pics more so to date stamp them. They are just so inconsistent right now and like you said, I have made such drastic changes with the business dynamic the last few months that who knows what was brought in. I will just watch for lethargy and weight loss and maybe I will catch one in the act actually doing the weird poos. I would feed the egg as a meal in itself. One chicken egg should fill them up for a while anyways. I use the shell I just cracked and break it up into the soup, but that usually mostly goes ignored. You can use powdered eggshell but like I was saying it sinks to the bottom unless you keep stirring it up as you hand feed it. If you include shell in the egg, it essentially counts as a bone-in meal. So if you feed egg+shell + a bone in meal, that's basically 2 bone-in meals. Noted that it will replace a meal. I was feeding it like a treat along with the BI meal, maybe that's why they haven't been finishing it... How old are they all again? I know Pepe is a kit - are the other 2 kits also? Yes, all babes. Pepe is the oldest actually. He is about 6 months I am guessing, Oliver about 5 and Rubes about 4, maybe less. I'd just get a physical, check all 3 for ear mites (pet store kits almost ALWAYS have ear mite - some places are better than others, but where I am a pet store kit is all but guaranteed to have them). I have them scheduled for wellness exams next week. I am prob going to hold off on the fecals for now for the reasons you said, but also because I want to see if she is going to be my choice for a ferret vet. I have been going to her for 15 some years for my cats, dogs, lizards, snakes, ect, but never for ferrets. So I am going to see if I feel like she has the experience and all to treat my guys. I do have another option, (the couple times we had to bring ferrets to the vet was after hours care and we will continue to use that one for such issues) but they are also an hour away. I like my vet, but I don't know how much she truly knows about ferrets and what her stance is on raw. I guess I will find out! Thanks for the suggestions and all, I will just play it by ear and see how it goes. But the ear mite thing alone is worth getting them checked out just in case!
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Post by katt on May 16, 2014 21:44:16 GMT -5
I don't know that I would have called it fat... it did have very thick skin. Was this fat I am calling skin...maybe. I honestly didn't notice a smell, but didn't 'sniff' for one either. I will just keep documenting these weird poops, posting pics more so to date stamp them. They are just so inconsistent right now and like you said, I have made such drastic changes with the business dynamic the last few months that who knows what was brought in. I will just watch for lethargy and weight loss and maybe I will catch one in the act actually doing the weird poos.Skin almost = fat. Skin has SubQ fat attached to it so feeding the skin is typically considered a "fat source." If the skin was thick it certainly could have contributed to the paler poops. Perhaps the gray is the blood from the hearts mixed into the pale fat portions of the poop. If there wasn't a super bad smell (trust me you would notice it), then I'm not concerned about anything bacterial. Noted that it will replace a meal. I was feeding it like a treat along with the BI meal, maybe that's why they haven't been finishing it...Yeah it's pretty filling. Try offering it as a meal and when they are done toss in a little bit of frozen meat that they gan gnaw at while it thaws. Especially in the summer meatcicles are a hit. Yes, all babes. Pepe is the oldest actually. He is about 6 months I am guessing, Oliver about 5 and Rubes about 4, maybe less.
I have them scheduled for wellness exams next week. I am prob going to hold off on the fecals for now for the reasons you said, but also because I want to see if she is going to be my choice for a ferret vet. I have been going to her for 15 some years for my cats, dogs, lizards, snakes, ect, but never for ferrets. So I am going to see if I feel like she has the experience and all to treat my guys. I do have another option, (the couple times we had to bring ferrets to the vet was after hours care and we will continue to use that one for such issues) but they are also an hour away. I like my vet, but I don't know how much she truly knows about ferrets and what her stance is on raw. I guess I will find out! Thanks for the suggestions and all, I will just play it by ear and see how it goes. But the ear mite thing alone is worth getting them checked out just in case! Fingers crossed and let me know how it goes! Any progress on the whole prey? How are they doing otherwise?
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2014 0:55:45 GMT -5
[b/]Any progress on the whole prey? How are they doing otherwise?[/b] I am making a trip to Albuquerque this weekend to get some bone in (duck, chicken, CGH) and I plan on going to a few pet stores to look into getting some frozen mice. I am also planning on making a simple chicken soup to try to get them to eat some fish. I think I have some tilapia and shrimp in there. Will start with those. I might not try it till later in the week but I want to have it ready. I will let you know when I and if I find the f/t mice and we can play with that. Everything is going fine so far. They are slowing down in general. Eating about 8-10 oz a day down from 15ish. I haven't tried the turkey again (which is what they didn't eat well last week). I will post next weeks menu sat or sun.
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Post by katt on May 17, 2014 1:58:22 GMT -5
Sounds good! Have you considered ordering from RodentPro? If you have the freezer space you could do a big order from them. It's a lot for shipping but still ends up being a lot less expensive than pet store costs per animal.
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2014 22:39:59 GMT -5
Hey there. Lonnnng weekend! I will have a menu and weights for you tomorrow. Nothing else really new and exciting... Sometimes that's a plus! Hope your weekend was marvelous, talk soon!
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