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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2012 11:03:19 GMT -5
Someone on facebook breeds and sells their kits at 8 weeks. From what I understand they should stay with mom till 12 weeks. She said that after 8 all mom teachs is how to use the litter box. I said she is still teaching manners. So please list the reasons for kits to stay with mom.
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Post by Sherry on Apr 4, 2012 11:25:37 GMT -5
Mom is still teaching them how to be ferrets, including socializing them, doing bite training, and helping them understand their world better.
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Post by Heather on Apr 4, 2012 12:04:52 GMT -5
...and teaching them how to be clean little ferrets and use a litter pan. The longer they're left with mom and sibs (while still having tons of human interaction) the better fert citizens they will be and the less likely they will find themselves in a shelter. Yes, they're a lot of work at this stage and they're now eating like little piggies but that's no reason to make the same mistakes as the ferret farms. My understanding and any of the breeders can step in here and correct me...is at the very least 10 weeks. Right now they're learning about what behaviours are acceptable and the most important thing....bite inhibition. That's why RC and Path Valley have so much difficulty with their ferrets (actually they don't have a problem, they don't care...but the ferrants are left to deal with those teeth). They're not bred for the placidity of the Marshals ferrets and they don't get the extra training that would be beneficial by being left with momma fuzz. ciao FOUND
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2012 12:15:39 GMT -5
Isn't it also for the mental well being of the ferret? Taking them away so young seems to create some mental issues later on (blanket suckling for example).
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Post by Heather on Apr 4, 2012 12:37:46 GMT -5
Very true. It happens in other animals why not ferrets. ciao
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2012 12:39:14 GMT -5
My girl Trixie sucked on blankets which evolved into eating them.
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Post by lorelei0922 on Apr 4, 2012 12:39:20 GMT -5
the litter training is only effective if the JILL is litter trained.. it has absolutely no bearing if the mum doesn't go in the same spot all the time and if that spot happens to be a corner instead of a box.. thats what the kit will learn
i dont let mine go till 10 weeks.. but by 8 the mum has generally had enough of them... for me the extra time is nip training and socializing with each other and my other ferrets
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Post by Heather on Apr 4, 2012 12:41:50 GMT -5
I suppose that is a good point . I certainly wouldn't want my wee Sprite teaching anyone about potty habits (she rivals Thor ) Thanks for the information. We're rather in the dark about the kits and breeding end of things ciao
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2012 13:05:00 GMT -5
I've seen a huge difference in litterbox habits between my Marshall babies and my breeder hob. My Marshall babies are pretty good, but when out of the cage, they will often just poop next to the litterbox, or sometimes even just stop in the middle of the floor and raise the tail to poop! Finn on the other hand, will ALWAYS run and find a litterbox. He stayed with momma for something like 14 weeks, he was a momma's boy ;D
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2012 13:36:10 GMT -5
Does anyone object to me passing the link to this thread onto the breeder?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2012 13:37:00 GMT -5
Does anyone object to me passing the link to this thread onto the breeder?
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Post by Sherry on Apr 4, 2012 14:04:27 GMT -5
Not in the least!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2012 14:47:14 GMT -5
Ok thank you Sent from my SCH-M828C using ProBoards
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Post by joan on Apr 6, 2012 10:10:30 GMT -5
IMO, 8 weeks is far too young to separate the kits from their littermates as they don't as yet have the emotional and mental maturity to deal with being on their own. My kits don't go to their new owners until they're at least 12 weeks old, so that the nip/bite training has at least been started and they know the meaning of "No." I can understand why breeders with several litters would want them out the door by 10 weeks, as that's usually when mine start playful nipping when interacting with humans.
My jills stay with their kits through at least 3 months, and sometimes longer. as they're allowed to choose whether or not they want to be with them. But then the kits are raised in the house with a lot of freedom, so don't bug their dam as they would if raised in a restricted environment.
My kits are reliable re using the litter pan by 7 weeks at the latest, as their dams use the litter pan 100% in the whelping cage. The kits almost always carry that over to using the litter pans in their pen once they're big enough to run around out of the whelping cage. When they're reliable about using the litter pans in the pen, then they get the run of the house several times a day.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2012 11:05:19 GMT -5
Something I'm curious about too is WHEN is that breeder suggesting they be altered or are they getting altered prior to placement? With the reading I did on the endocannabinoid system and its interrelations with the ENTIRE endocrine, hormone and physiological systems of the ferret and EB system's subsequent influence on the ferret's health; and with all my ferrets hailing from the major breeders they were altered at the 3 to 5 week range; I'm fairly convinced that a great many of our ferret's "troubles"stem from not only early separation, but also early altering. With it being a generally accepted practice to alter puppies and kittens later in life - if ferrets were offered a similar chance for more intact development - its likely we'd see much less instances of adrenal problems. We here in the Holistic Forum seem to have figured out the way to eliminate insulinoma problems. Offering the kit a a chance to hang out with the jill and littermates until the jill says "enough" seems to me to be the ideal way for ferret kits to adjust to home placement more naturally. If the breeder is doing their job of human socialization and interaction, then even if the kit is bound for a long distance placement, the shift to the new home shouldn't be traumatic. Placement to a home with information about a more natural approach and the ferrets should get a chance to have a very long and very healthy life! Can you imagine what is going through the kit's mind when it's first introduction to human hands means horrible pain from a hurried surgery? How willing will those poor kits be to wriggle and develop strong muscles if they are in pain? For the jills especially - its no wonder so many of them don't like to cuddle. Cheers, Kim Altering may be an accepted practice for ferrets but does it have to come at such a cost to their health? The UK ferrets seem to do fine with the "jill jab" and vasectomized hobs - could it be because their owners are more informed? Knowledge is that powerful key and breeders are a good source to get information as well as to initiate changes for their breed.
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