|
Post by jamien18 on Mar 29, 2018 6:34:47 GMT -5
You may need to introduce the oil. But yes, salmon oil is a healthy treat to give. It can be used to introduce new proteins in food too, sparingly, and lessened until it's not used at all on the new protein, but it can help give that jump-start. The other two have been on that a while now, we need to move them on away from having the soup at all, just slivers, so we can start increasing the size of those too and get them moving finally to large chunks, so you can introduce bones too. Have you offered any heart or liver slivers yet, or just muscle meat slivers? They've had the heart and livers also, should I try just the meat slivers now? And no soup
|
|
|
Post by LindaM on Mar 29, 2018 13:49:34 GMT -5
I would try that, yes, and if you have issues then maybe just do a drizzle of the soup on top of the slivers. Soup can actually also be used like an incentive for introducing new proteins later on as well, since it is something they are used to now.
|
|
|
Post by jamien18 on Mar 30, 2018 3:58:51 GMT -5
I would try that, yes, and if you have issues then maybe just do a drizzle of the soup on top of the slivers. Soup can actually also be used like an incentive for introducing new proteins later on as well, since it is something they are used to now. Do the thighs, heart and livers an at the same time ? And what part of the turkey can I get so I can try that. And also with beef
|
|
|
Post by LindaM on Mar 30, 2018 12:28:51 GMT -5
I'd first try some slivers of just muscle and see how it goes, or add just a little bit of heart and liver slivers into mostly muscle meat slivers (think of the ratio like the soup uses) and mix it around together with a spoon. Do you use bone meal powder or powdered egg shell? For beef.. honestly you can use any cut, even if you have to cut the meat from the bones yourself (beef bones are always too tough for ferrets to eat, unless pulverized in a raw grind). The cheapest cuts I can generally find at our one local grocery store is boneless chuck/top roast or top sirloin. For turkey.. they can eat necks, wingtips, and ribs. Though I have also offered "smashed to h*ll and back with a hammer" thighs for my ferrets, the bones in those are really tough so you definitely need to smash them up good. But for doing just muscle meat, you can buy breasts but those are really expensive here, so I buy really meaty thighs and just cut the meat off the bones if I need some. Also, gonna link to the Basic Frankenprey Menu for you, it lists examples of what animals and parts are good in the diet overall. holisticferretforum.com/natural-diet/raw-diet-the-meat-of-the-site/basic-frankenprey-menu/
|
|
|
Post by jamien18 on Mar 31, 2018 6:09:59 GMT -5
I'd first try some slivers of just muscle and see how it goes, or add just a little bit of heart and liver slivers into mostly muscle meat slivers (think of the ratio like the soup uses) and mix it around together with a spoon. Do you use bone meal powder or powdered egg shell? For beef.. honestly you can use any cut, even if you have to cut the meat from the bones yourself (beef bones are always too tough for ferrets to eat, unless pulverized in a raw grind). The cheapest cuts I can generally find at our one local grocery store is boneless chuck/top roast or top sirloin. For turkey.. they can eat necks, wingtips, and ribs. Though I have also offered "smashed to h*ll and back with a hammer" thighs for my ferrets, the bones in those are really tough so you definitely need to smash them up good. But for doing just muscle meat, you can buy breasts but those are really expensive here, so I buy really meaty thighs and just cut the meat off the bones if I need some. Also, gonna link to the Basic Frankenprey Menu for you, it lists examples of what animals and parts are good in the diet overall. holisticferretforum.com/natural-diet/raw-diet-the-meat-of-the-site/basic-frankenprey-menu/I use the bone meal powder, it took them longer to eat the slivers during the day than the soup is that normal? I use bone meal powder. I also got some salmon oil and when I put it on my finger to show them they just walked away lol, And alright thank you. I just wanna get them more of a variety to eat. Can you also tell me how long the meats can stay in the cage?. I know the soup but not the others
|
|
|
Post by jamien18 on Mar 31, 2018 8:53:51 GMT -5
Also this morning I let my newest girl Winnie out to walk in the living room and kitchen I was right with her the whole time. And she seemed really interested in our dog food that we have. She even stole a piece but I got it from her. I didn't think she could eat it
|
|
|
Post by LindaM on Mar 31, 2018 14:32:57 GMT -5
Totally normal. You will notice that as you move along with the slivers and start going onto chunks and bone-in pieces, they will slow their roll with eating.. eating less or taking longer. One of the reasons it's so super easy for some ferrets to overeat on something like grinds or soups, is that you can basically just slurp it up. When the pieces of meat get bigger or you have to crunch bones, well, then it is work and takes effort. Ferrets are really lazy little bugs when it comes to eating, that's just how they are. They will regulate their diets pretty well on raw overall though.
Okay, great! I just wanted to check that for when we move on with the slivers, until they are eating chunks with bone-in, we may have to add a little bonemeal powder in with the muscle meat (uses the same ratio as the soup does 1/2 tsp to 3/4 tsp per 10oz of meat).
So, recall the Grab'n'Dab method? You can use that to introduce the salmon oil too. I'll list the raw times below.
HOW LONG TO LEAVE RAW OUT FOR: Soups: 6-8 hours Grinds: 8-12 hours Chunks: 10-24 hours (depending on size eg. the bigger the chunks are, the longer they'll last) Bone-in Meats: 12-24 hours (again, depending on size) Whole Prey: up to 48 hours
Ferrets are very curious, they will show curiosity in other animals, but it's best not to let them interact in play or anything like that. Ferrets push the boundaries and even the most trusted and well-trained dogs can make a fatal mistake, and ferrets too can do quite some damage if they wanted. As such we do not advocate for ferrets and dogs interacting together, even under supervision.
What did she steal a piece of? Sorry you didn't seem to mention in your comment.
|
|
|
Post by jamien18 on Mar 31, 2018 15:00:13 GMT -5
Totally normal. You will notice that as you move along with the slivers and start going onto chunks and bone-in pieces, they will slow their roll with eating.. eating less or taking longer. One of the reasons it's so super easy for some ferrets to overeat on something like grinds or soups, is that you can basically just slurp it up. When the pieces of meat get bigger or you have to crunch bones, well, then it is work and takes effort. Ferrets are really lazy little bugs when it comes to eating, that's just how they are. They will regulate their diets pretty well on raw overall though. Okay, great! I just wanted to check that for when we move on with the slivers, until they are eating chunks with bone-in, we may have to add a little bonemeal powder in with the muscle meat (uses the same ratio as the soup does 1/2 tsp to 3/4 tsp per 10oz of meat). So, recall the Grab'n'Dab method? You can use that to introduce the salmon oil too. I'll list the raw times below. HOW LONG TO LEAVE RAW OUT FOR: Soups: 6-8 hours Grinds: 8-12 hours Chunks: 10-24 hours (depending on size eg. the bigger the chunks are, the longer they'll last) Bone-in Meats: 12-24 hours (again, depending on size) Whole Prey: up to 48 hoursFerrets are very curious, they will show curiosity in other animals, but it's best not to let them interact in play or anything like that. Ferrets push the boundaries and even the most trusted and well-trained dogs can make a fatal mistake, and ferrets too can do quite some damage if they wanted. As such we do not advocate for ferrets and dogs interacting together, even under supervision. What did she steal a piece of? Sorry you didn't seem to mention in your comment. Alright I'll be sure to put the bone meal in it, what exactly are grinds? and she stole a piece of the dog food that was out but I didn't let her eat it, I also had the dogs up when she was out waking around. I applied to get a care credit card but was declined. So my mom got one for me but I won't be able to go to the vet until Saturday because she has to go with me to show ID
|
|
|
Post by LindaM on Mar 31, 2018 19:51:44 GMT -5
So grinds.. are kinda what they sound like.. ground up animal/meat. Some grinds are perfectly balanced such a whole animal grinds. Other grinds that adhere to 10-15% bone, 65-70% muscle, 10% heart, and 10% organs (at least half of this is liver) are also considered balanced. But some grinds just aren't balanced and are much harder to use unless you really really calculate to keep your menu balanced, eg. a grind that is only muscle or has percentages very off from the ones listed above. Commercial grinds will include brands like Stella & Chewy's for example, in frozen or FDR (Freeze-Dried Raw). You can also buy grinds off online raw providers such as Hare Today or My Pet Carnivore, both offer some balanced and some not balanced grinds. Grinds can also be a nice way to introduce new proteins, before moving on to bigger pieces like chunks of those new proteins (but you can just use muscle of new proteins to introduce too). Grinds can also be a nice way to add extra variety in your ferrets' diet, especially if there are proteins that you struggle getting a hold of. They can be on the pricier side though, and the thing to keep in mind is when you use grinds, you need to balance them using the Alternative Meals chart from here. AND! Ferrets' teeth must be brushed several times in the week, unless you are still feeding several bone-in meals in their diet to counteract that. It has its positives and negatives obviously. Oh, I gotcha. Yeah, she shouldn't get any of the dog food, unless you are also feeding your dog a natural, raw diet, in which case it would be okay if she decided to steal a chunk of meat from their bowl. Hmm, if they declined you, they should be sending you a letter in the mail in a few days to a week telling you exactly why you got declined for it. At least it will let you know what to work on, until then, your mom's will have to do. Remember to pay her back for it, haha! If you guys have a really good relationship with one another, she could call CareCredit to send you a card on her account, it'll have your name and you can use it by yourself, but the account ultimately remains in her name. Our CareCredit account is in my name, but my husband has a card of his own for it and doesn't need me to be there for him when he uses it.
|
|
|
Post by jamien18 on Mar 31, 2018 20:03:00 GMT -5
So grinds.. are kinda what they sound like.. ground up animal/meat. Some grinds are perfectly balanced such a whole animal grinds. Other grinds that adhere to 10-15% bone, 65-70% muscle, 10% heart, and 10% organs (at least half of this is liver) are also considered balanced. But some grinds just aren't balanced and are much harder to use unless you really really calculate to keep your menu balanced, eg. a grind that is only muscle or has percentages very off from the ones listed above. Commercial grinds will include brands like Stella & Chewy's for example, in frozen or FDR (Freeze-Dried Raw). You can also buy grinds off online raw providers such as Hare Today or My Pet Carnivore, both offer some balanced and some not balanced grinds. Grinds can also be a nice way to introduce new proteins, before moving on to bigger pieces like chunks of those new proteins (but you can just use muscle of new proteins to introduce too). Grinds can also be a nice way to add extra variety in your ferrets' diet, especially if there are proteins that you struggle getting a hold of. They can be on the pricier side though, and the thing to keep in mind is when you use grinds, you need to balance them using the Alternative Meals chart from here. AND! Ferrets' teeth must be brushed several times in the week, unless you are still feeding several bone-in meals in their diet to counteract that. It has its positives and negatives obviously. Oh, I gotcha. Yeah, she shouldn't get any of the dog food, unless you are also feeding your dog a natural, raw diet, in which case it would be okay if she decided to steal a chunk of meat from their bowl. Hmm, if they declined you, they should be sending you a letter in the mail in a few days to a week telling you exactly why you got declined for it. At least it will let you know what to work on, until then, your mom's will have to do. Remember to pay her back for it, haha! If you guys have a really good relationship with one another, she could call CareCredit to send you a card on her account, it'll have your name and you can use it by yourself, but the account ultimately remains in her name. Our CareCredit account is in my name, but my husband has a card of his own for it and doesn't need me to be there for him when he uses it. Do you have to do grinds ? And yeah I'm definitely pay her back haha
|
|
|
Post by LindaM on Mar 31, 2018 21:35:13 GMT -5
Nope, not at all! Grinds can be a headache, so there are many raw feeders who don't use them at all. What types of raw one decides to do for their fuzzies is entirely up to every owner themselves. It never hurts to know about the other types, in case one may be needed at a future situation, but that's about it. You can simply introduce new proteins to your lot as slivers mixed in with a protein they already enjoy, or make a soup from it and introduce it that way. How is Winnie doing with her eating? Is she still being a little difficult?
|
|
|
Post by jamien18 on Mar 31, 2018 22:20:52 GMT -5
Nope, not at all! Grinds can be a headache, so there are many raw feeders who don't use them at all. What types of raw one decides to do for their fuzzies is entirely up to every owner themselves. It never hurts to know about the other types, in case one may be needed at a future situation, but that's about it. You can simply introduce new proteins to your lot as slivers mixed in with a protein they already enjoy, or make a soup from it and introduce it that way. How is Winnie doing with her eating? Is she still being a little difficult? She's being really difficult. I have her a vet appointment next Saturday so she can get seen
|
|
|
Post by LindaM on Mar 31, 2018 23:53:56 GMT -5
How's she been drinking? Normal? Is her poops still weird? Peeing like normal? Keep working with getting her to eat. Praise her for every little bit that she eats. I would sit flat on the floor with her in your lap (use a blanket over your lap if her claws are on the sharp side to shield your legs) and you can rest the bowl on one knee, hold her with one hand, petting and stroking, while offering the food with a spoon in the other hand. If this isn't helping and she's really fighting it, but not eating within the daily requirement, then you may want to resort to trying the following method, it's called the Scruff'n'Stuff. It's detailed in the link below and includes videos to show the method. Hand Feeding - The Scruff'n'Stuff Method
|
|
|
Post by jamien18 on Apr 1, 2018 10:57:02 GMT -5
I found a kibble she'll eat on her own. I got one for my other 2 a while ago but they never ate it I offered it to Winnie and she just ate and ate. Hopefully she'll continue to eat and and me still do the soup with her.
She's drinking normally. She doesn't poop a lot because I could hardly get her to eat
|
|
|
Post by jamien18 on Apr 1, 2018 12:15:29 GMT -5
I also got my other 2 some beef and turkey. Do I mix them with the bone meal and hearts and livers also?
|
|