Post by Aftershock on Oct 28, 2016 0:41:24 GMT -5
There are two types of fear biting:
1) Fear Reactive
2) A Fear Biter
The first, a fear reactive bite, can happen with any ferret. This happens with being startled or something painful, such as getting a nail caught, getting a leg caught (or breaking it) and getting stuck there.
When startled, they will turn and bite deep and hard, but generally only once.
When in pain, a ferret will give a swift series of bites. *bitebitebitebitebite* These bites are deep and hard. The ferret is absolutely frantic at this point and terrified because they are trapped. (Think fox caught in a bear trap)
The second, a fear biter, is a completely different ball game.
To assess if a ferret is a fear biter takes observing them. A fear biter will either not approach you, or confront you for the sole purpose of causing as much damage as possible in hopes of scaring you off.
They have been conditioned to expect pain, therefore, attack first.
In both of these cases, you cannot punish them. This will get you nowhere, you have to ignore their biting habit.
In the case of a fear biter, you have a couple of options;
You can give them all the space in the world combined with verbally acknowledging them, but physically leave them alone until they make the move that they are willing to accept your touch. You are allowed to pick them up when they have gone to sleep, so you may treat them, and put them in their cage. This helps them become used to being handled and associate being put to bed with good things. This method focuses on letting the ferret decide on when it is comfortable enough to be in your space, and what it can tolerate.
Or,
Extremely patient positive hand training. When I say positive hand training, I'm talking about convincing a ferret to associate hands with good things using tools such as salmon oil on your hand so they don't see it as a painful thing, but as a thing that gives treats. In this method, you are to find your fear biters oil of choice (Never Ferrevite (If you have to use furretone, only use it as long as you need to, switch to salmon oil as soon as possible)), put it on a dish (the dish is important, it is open area therefore less intimidating than a bowl), and offer it. When an oil is established, offer from the bottle. Do this only once a day. The next day, pick them up with one hand and bring the bottle to their mouth with the other. Only allow for one or two licks, then put them down and walk away. This is continued until the ferret approaches you for attention, this action means you are now associated with treats. Once they look to you for a treat, you begin putting a small amount in the palm of your hand and offering this instead of the bottle. If a ferret bites at this point, get up and walk away. This sends the message that biting equals no treat.
Once they have stopped lunge biting, and biting when being picked up, you can begin using the sin bin. At this point a trust has been established and they will no longer be biting out of fear.
With both of these, there is one thing that is very important;
If the ferret bites you and latches on, you must hold still. Pulling back will only make this worse. If a ferret absolutely will not let go (this could be because they have scared themselves by biting you) you can apply pressure on the corners of their mouth. Note that during a latch bite, talking softly and calmly can help the ferret calm down, this should also be done if you need to unlach them.
These methods are very different, but both take a lot of patience and a lot of time.
If you think you may have rescued a fear biter, you are more than welcome to message us for help. This is what we are here for.
This information has been gathered from Heather Downie, Sherry Stone, and Morgan Brown
1) Fear Reactive
2) A Fear Biter
The first, a fear reactive bite, can happen with any ferret. This happens with being startled or something painful, such as getting a nail caught, getting a leg caught (or breaking it) and getting stuck there.
When startled, they will turn and bite deep and hard, but generally only once.
When in pain, a ferret will give a swift series of bites. *bitebitebitebitebite* These bites are deep and hard. The ferret is absolutely frantic at this point and terrified because they are trapped. (Think fox caught in a bear trap)
The second, a fear biter, is a completely different ball game.
To assess if a ferret is a fear biter takes observing them. A fear biter will either not approach you, or confront you for the sole purpose of causing as much damage as possible in hopes of scaring you off.
They have been conditioned to expect pain, therefore, attack first.
In both of these cases, you cannot punish them. This will get you nowhere, you have to ignore their biting habit.
In the case of a fear biter, you have a couple of options;
You can give them all the space in the world combined with verbally acknowledging them, but physically leave them alone until they make the move that they are willing to accept your touch. You are allowed to pick them up when they have gone to sleep, so you may treat them, and put them in their cage. This helps them become used to being handled and associate being put to bed with good things. This method focuses on letting the ferret decide on when it is comfortable enough to be in your space, and what it can tolerate.
Or,
Extremely patient positive hand training. When I say positive hand training, I'm talking about convincing a ferret to associate hands with good things using tools such as salmon oil on your hand so they don't see it as a painful thing, but as a thing that gives treats. In this method, you are to find your fear biters oil of choice (Never Ferrevite (If you have to use furretone, only use it as long as you need to, switch to salmon oil as soon as possible)), put it on a dish (the dish is important, it is open area therefore less intimidating than a bowl), and offer it. When an oil is established, offer from the bottle. Do this only once a day. The next day, pick them up with one hand and bring the bottle to their mouth with the other. Only allow for one or two licks, then put them down and walk away. This is continued until the ferret approaches you for attention, this action means you are now associated with treats. Once they look to you for a treat, you begin putting a small amount in the palm of your hand and offering this instead of the bottle. If a ferret bites at this point, get up and walk away. This sends the message that biting equals no treat.
Once they have stopped lunge biting, and biting when being picked up, you can begin using the sin bin. At this point a trust has been established and they will no longer be biting out of fear.
With both of these, there is one thing that is very important;
If the ferret bites you and latches on, you must hold still. Pulling back will only make this worse. If a ferret absolutely will not let go (this could be because they have scared themselves by biting you) you can apply pressure on the corners of their mouth. Note that during a latch bite, talking softly and calmly can help the ferret calm down, this should also be done if you need to unlach them.
These methods are very different, but both take a lot of patience and a lot of time.
If you think you may have rescued a fear biter, you are more than welcome to message us for help. This is what we are here for.
This information has been gathered from Heather Downie, Sherry Stone, and Morgan Brown
