I'm not a raw feeder but I have learned a lot. To start with, you will learn how much they eat at a meal. Communication with your breeder is very helpful once they are born. There are feeding charts here somewhere, but I believe an ounce 4x a day is about right for kits. Plus or minus depending on age. They grow very quickly and adjustments need to be made as needed. next is a designated feeding area. Seeing your planned hutch, you can designate one box for feeding. Feed them there always, and you can modify adapt that area, such as add screening to keep flies out or add a screen door to keep them in while dining. And it makes cleaning easier. Consider putting down a mat that covers the whole floor of the feeding space, or get linoleum cut to fit. If they feed in the box, you don't have to worry about leftover outdoors that will attract flies. Clean up any leftovers after meals. They will try to stash leftovers. make sure to clean water dishes daily to control mosquitoes. Don't use water bottles. Ferrets are not rodents and metal bottle tubes can damage ferret teeth. Flies are not so big a problem indoors, but ferts will stash food if allowed leading to nasty surprises on cleaning up day so an enclosed feeding den should be provided I wish we could have an outdoor enclosure here in our rural home, but we have too many predatory birds and mammals.
Last Edit: May 28, 2021 20:14:36 GMT -5 by unclejoe
After reading your message I am thinking I could use the mid level enclosed area as a feeding space, as that would keep the flies out and the rest of the hutch clean.....notwithstanding their desire to stash food for a midnight snack of course
Mosquitoes thankfully are not a problem in the UK - even though I still seem to get bitten by smaller midges! I just seem to attract them as no one else in the house gets bitten
I am going to use water bowls attached to the hutch and not water bottles, as I have read that kits can get frustrated with the slow flow of bottles and then lose interest and become dehydrated, as well as the damage to their teeth caused by the tube.
The breeder has told me about which types of raw food he feeds, which is a variety of different meats. I will ask him how much my kits are eating at the time of collection, so I can match that and then adjust as they grow. I think the guidance is 20% of their weight for kits, and adults is 10% of their weight - although how they expect me to weigh a wriggling mass of excitement is beyond me!!
I think I am lucky to live in an area where there are no predetory animals or birds, and my garden is cat proofed so no other cats except mine can get in - and they can't get out.
This forum is so helpful - thanks for such a great welcome and useful advice.
Yes when feeding them you will want to have them in a feeding den and keep them contained. I put my guy in his cage to eat and give him 15-20 min then I clean up the food in a container and will offer him more later if he hasn't eaten it all. I have to keep him in his cage or he will stash his food somewhere in the house. I get flies too if left out and the house is warm. If the house is cold I don't have as much of a problem but then I get ants so I still have to clean up his food and wipe down his shelf. I don't have problems in the winter months. Outside there's more chances of flies.
weigh method. put in a couple drops of salmon oil or bit of food. IMG_1395 by unclejoe1158, on Flickr
Oh my word, that's an adorable photo
And a very good idea - thanks
Thanks for your reply Lyles - I won't be leaving the food out all day, and after the advice above, I will feed them in a enclosed area of the hutch as a feeding den. Hopefully this will stop any pesky flies
Thankfully I don't have to worry about my cat's food bowl because last year Hugo, my young cat, was super speedy and killed and ate any flies that came inside. I'm sure he thought I'd provided a new type of cat toy